Hungry in Berlin

In the beginning, there was stale bread. And then Oma got creative and created the knödel.

There is little wrong, especially when the temperature dips into the single digits, with boiled bread dumplings — especially when there’s some goulash to go along with or simply melted butter and grated cheese.

Sure, one might bitch about Berlin’s lack of green vegis heading into the end of the year, but it’s only for appearances. If you find yourself lost in Mitte (unavoidable, really) and you stumble upon Mulackstrasse, keep an eye out for an unassuming cafe with a goofy light-box sign (see image).

Leo Bettini makes homemade knödel and pasta, to go or to nibble right there in its bare-bones, white dining room (which reminds me of an Ikea-inspired kindergarten classroom, complete with tiny stools. There is a kiddie table, too.) The knödel go traditional as well as fancy — the day I visited they offered four flavors: wild mushroom, bergkäse (like Emmenthal) with caraway seeds, spinach and dried tomato.

Super-friendly staff; pretty gut-filling fare. But good, and certainly a good sign of the times — the more specialty food stores Berlin inspires, the better the potential options for good, authentic food.

Got a secret snack place that does something special? Let us know below. (am)

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