Hungry in Berlin

It’s that time of year. A time where any hungry Berliner can waltz down to practically any corner of the city and be assaulted with Christmas celebrations—and of course, Christmas snacks. Weihnachtsmärkte (Christmas outdoor markets) all over Germany are both tradition and spectacle, chock-full of carnival rides, holiday gifts only a Frankish oma could love, and a feast of food from the good-for-you grünkohl to the decadent and undoubtedly (if not gradually) deadly schmalzkuchen.

There are a few standbys that will be familiar to anyone who’s spent lazy afternoons in biergartens, yet Weihnachtsmärkte also offer a set menu geared just for the season. Bratwurst, either moderately sized or in half-meter lengths, are in abundance; so is steak on a stick and boulette im brot. Pfanne, or sautéed foods done up in an obscenely large paella-styled skillet, are plenty: mushrooms with sauce, the aforementioned grünkohl and accompanying chicken livers (a combo that may have some historical significance, but all I can figure out is that both are rich in Vitamin A, which can aid night vision—quite necessary during Berlin’s long, dark winter days) and “asia” items, usually noodles or fried rice. Fried dough, in all its gorgeous forms, however, is the symbol of the season: our faves are listed after the jump.

Hungarian “langos”: Finally, the elephant ear has come to Berlin. A deep-fried floppy disc of yeast dough made from potatoes, the langos is topped either with savory cheese and ham or sugar and jam. The market outside the Alexa shopping center offered a sambal olek topping, which seemed a tad too racy for the locals; most seemed to opt instead for Emmenthaler and sour cream. In short: greasy heart-attack goodness. Also at the Schlossplatz market (across from the Lustgarten on Under den Linden.)

Quarkkeulchen: A perfectly fried, warm, powdered sugar-dusted pile of quarkkeulchen is about as close to Weihnachten nirvana (pardon the religious metaphor-mixing) as one can come. A specialty of the Dresden area (which is, also, the home to the very first German Weihnachtsmarkt, in 1434) these fried dumplings are made with a blend of potato dough and quark, that mysterious yet delectable German cheesy-cream. Usually bought in trios: get a dozen to prevent fighting with friends.

Mutzenmandeln, or Schmaltzkuchen: Often found served in the same hut alongside the larger, rounder Quarkkeulchen, these two types of deep-fried, bite-sized snack look virtually identical and are served covered with powdered sugar. According to the internets, mutzenmandeln hail from Cologne (and include ground almonds) and schmaltzkuchen (fried in pure animal fat) are from Hamburg—but honestly, the variations we tried tasted exactly the same. As fun and as decadent as snarfing a whole bag of donuts holes on your own.

For a quick walking tour of the city’s larger markets, start at Alexanderplatz, working your way through the square’s larger selection (in front of the Kaufhauf) of gifts and snacks (there’s an ice rink, too); there is also a small market (and Ferris wheel) in front of Alexa, where you can find those spicy hungarian langos. The Schlossplatz market is the city’s main attraction, and can be unbearably crowded on weekends; hit an early weekday evening to snack and drink in peace. Virtually next door is the Opernpalais market, which appears a bit more upscale and downtempo—the highlight here is a booth of “bio” schnapps and whisky, tended by the spiritsmaker himself, who is very generous with samples. (More on Christmas booze in Berlin in a later post.)

For a short selection of Weihnachtsmärkte in the hauptstadt, click here. Have a favorite Weihnachtsmarkt snack? if you’ve experienced something particularly delicious (or not), do share it with us below in comments.

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