Hungry in Berlin

This summer has seen an outpouring of fresh vegetables like I’ve never seen in 14 summers here. Not only that, the “bio” versions in the outdoor markets are no more expensive — and in some cases cheaper — than the same items in the supermarket.

Making a very rare appearance this year are absolutely fresh green peas. In the past, you’ve been able to get these delightful legumes maybe one year in three or four, and by the time they got to Berlin, the pods were beginning to brown and you had to throw out 10% of the peas inside them. The ones I’ve seen this year are shiny and bursting with fat peas.

The other star of the show is a crop of green beans which are unlike any I’ve seen here previously. Also fat and shiny, they are surprising because, despite their heft, they’re not at all fibrous, and, when properly cooked, give up a wonderfully nutty flavor in addition to the green taste.

I’ve adapted two of my favorite pasta recipes for this joyous occasion, so click away and start boiling some water.

Green Bean Carbonara

250g fresh green beans

250 g penne

2 eggs

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1/3 cup freshly grated Romano

1/4 cup parsley

freshly grated pepper to taste (use a lot)

1/2 package supermarket bacon OR

50g pancetta, sliced into cubes

1/4 cup white wine

a handful of walnuts, toasted in a small skillet and chopped roughly

Snap the green beans into lengths identical to that of the penne. Boil some salted water and cook the penne, according to the time recommended by the manufacturer. In the same water, at the same time, boil the green beans, noting that they should only boil for 12 minutes, so adjust when you add them accordingly.

In a small skillet, cook the bacon or pancetta until it’s crisp, then, without draining it, add the wine. Remove from heat.

In a bowl, beat the eggs, cheeses, parsley and pepper together.

When the pasta is done, drain it and the beans. Reheat the bacon/wine mixture until it bubbles. Add it to the pasta-cooking pot, then add the cooked pasta and beans. Stir. Keep stirring and add the egg mixture. When all is integrated, and the cheeses have melted and the eggs have mixed with the wine and have solidified, serve, garnished with the chopped nuts.

Serves 2

Pasta with Roasted Red Peppers, Peas, and Ham

250g pasta (many possibilities here: penne, rigatoni, or fresh pappardelle or fettuccine)

the peas from 500g fresh peas

white wine

four or five roasted red peppers (at least, the ones I bought, which were big paprika-style heart-shaped ones in a glass jar; the idea is to wind up with about 1/4 cup cubes), jarred, from the deli, or made fresh.

2 tablespoons ham, cubed (I cheated and bought Schinken Wurfeln at the store; the original version of this recipe uses prosciutto, which I find waaay too assertive)

1 cup cream

freshly ground pepper

3/4 cup freshly grated parmesan

1 tablespoon butter

Shell the peas. Cut the roasted peppers into 1/4-inch squares. Cube the ham (if you haven’t cheated like I did) into similar-sized cubes. Boil the pasta water.

Place the peas in a small pan and pour white wine into them until you can just barely see it rising up around the peas. Cover, then steam very briefly over low heat. The peas are ready just as they turn bright green. Turn off the heat.

In another saucepan, melt the butter, then sautee the ham cubes for a minute or two. Add the peppers and sautee them, too. Then add the cream, the peas, and whatever liquid is left from the peas. Grind a little pepper into all of this and heat, stirring occasionally, until the cream mixture has thickened. This all should take as long as it takes the pasta to cook.

Drain the pasta, and return it to the pot. Add the cream mixture, and begin adding Parmesan cheese in small handfuls, stirring the whole time. When the various components of the sauce — peas, peppers — start sticking to the pasta, that’ll be enough. Serve immediately.

Serves 2

In both cases, a nice summery white wine is absolutely indicated. Our sommellieuse will be along shortly to advise.

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