Hungry in Berlin

A few weeks ago we asked a friend out to Indian food. I could hear the shrug through the telephone. “If you want to,” she said, which when translated, really means, “I think you’ve lost your foodie edge, and have gone all soft and wimpy on me.” Which, considering the suggestion, is easily understandable. We too for some time (OK, years now) have given up on Indian food in the Hauptstadt — too sweet, no spice, and heavens, far more flash (and flags) than real substance. Not worth the effort, and certainly not worth the price.

Hira Palace, located just under the S-bahn tracks (at the end of the street where the trams park; there used to be an Italian place there) in Hackescher Markt, despite its efforts to blend in with every other Indian restaurant in this town (yes, there are flags and buddahs and the rest), delivers good Indian food with authentic flavors — but only when you ask.  If you like the spice, when you order, be sure to in no uncertain terms tell the waitstaff (they are very accomodating and kind) that you don’t want “european style” flavors (which translates to not-hot) but proper spices. They’ll even offer a chili-sauce on the side, if you look particularly keen.

We’ve eaten there twice now, one time with a large group and once with just three people, and have always had more than enough food.  The dal (the style of which changes) is good; most of the vegetarian dishes are quite spicy and satisfying; the fish was mostly dry (but wasn’t much of a surprise.) Naan, as seems to be the case everywhere, is more roti in style (flatter, not yeast-raised) but perhaps one day I’ll start that tandoori-import business and make a killing in this town. Someday.

Check it out.  The Web site still lists the restaurant’s prior address in Charlottenburg, although last time we visited, the owner insisted that they were in the process of updating it.

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